Dispatches
Mountain Lodges of Peru – Peru, Part I
April 12, 2009
Bright and early, and we mean early, we left for the airport. Luckily we didn’t run into any early morning traffic and we were off to Lima. As we flew over Lima, we could tell it was a big city and right on the ocean, but everything (mountains, buildings, land) was brown and sort of blah, very different from our next stop in Cuzco. As we flew into Cuzco, we were covered in thick, swirling clouds, and then we descended onto a very, very green city. Every direction we looked, there were green trees, mountains covered with trees and generally green everywhere. We were very impressed and despite the very tight landing, we were awed to be in this ancient city. Our guide told us that the city of Cuzco dates back to at least 1200 BC and was a major hub for the Inca during its time. The city was bustling this day, as it was Sunday and everyone was bringing goods to the market. We drove up the steep hillsides out of Cuzco and then for the next three hours tried to acclimate to the altitude as we snaked along scenic, mountain vistas.
Our first stop was the town of Mollepata, where we talked with several programs that Mountain Lodges of Peru (MLP) is supporting. First a little background, the current Inca Trail that is commonly used to get to Machu Picchu is very overcrowded and regulated. MLP knew of an alternative route to Machu Picchu that, if done correctly, could also help several hundred villages along the route earn extra income by providing goods and services to the many travelers that visit this ancient relic each year. To cement this route, MLP created four lodges, each a day’s hike from each other, and also began working with groups in each of the communities to promote local entrepreneurs. In the pueblo of Mollepata, MLP partnered with Yanapana, a community development organization, to identify local businesses in need of some support. Our first night in Mollepata, we went to visit several of these entrepreneurs.
Our first stop was a local, woman-owned business making traditional marmalades. Margarita Pereya Salas needed extra income and was making several different edible products, but the costs to purchase all of the machinery and ingredients was too high. That is when she stumbled upon natural marmalade production. She realized that she could make a product, using all 100% locally produced fruits, and one that would give nutritional benefits to the community, particularly using products that have natural healing properties. In this way, she also supports other local farmers in giving them an additional outlet to sell their goods. One tiny fruit, the aguaymanto, (tastes like a tomato mixed with fruit) is thought to lower cholesterol and fight osteoporosis, with an additional 23 preventive and 4 healing properties. The investment is just a few dollars and she can make double or triple that with the sale of each jar. Now she is working, with the help of Yanapana, to teach local school children how to make natural preserves, as well as teaching women in other communities along the route. Many of the dishes we tried at the hotel were made with marmalades from her shop.
Our next stop was a women’s textile coop, the Association Civil Apusalcantay Warnycuna. Women in the village traditionally don’t have a way to earn income and provide for their families. So, several women in the community organized to make textiles from local materials to sell to the many tourists trekking through the area. Yanapana provided resources, materials and education on how to take raw cotton, weave it into yarn, dye it from locally found plants and berries, and then dye the wool and turn it into scarves, ponchos, belts, coin purses, hats and other local handicrafts. MLP also helps by bringing tourists through the area with their four lodges program, which helps to keep their cooperative sustainable.
Finally, we had a brief meeting with Yanapana (the social and economic development arm of MLP) and a local traditional medicine healer. Yanapana explained how they offer resources to local businesses to alleviate poverty, as well as provide resources for local health care and education to help over 200 families along a 230-mile route north of Cuzco. The local healer taught us about how natural herbs can be used for stomachaches, lotions, salves, and to alleviate other ailments. 
After that, it was late and time for bed. We went back to the Nan Tika hotel, another project of Yanapana and MLP, for a good nights rest. The accommodations were very nice and it was great to hear about how this young couple was given resources to restore their hotel into a very cozy spot. The food was incredible, with several dishes that you would find in any upscale restaurant. The hosts could not have been more friendly or helpful – it was a wonderful rest after a very long day.
