Dispatches
Gorilla Tracking in the Virungas: Even cooler than it sounds
April 16, 2008
It’s a short journey from Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge to Parc National des Volcans where we’re met by Francois, a buoyant, convivial 25-year gorilla tracking veteran and former porter to Dian Fossey who established the formal organization of Rwanda’s Parc National des Volcans gorilla trackers.
I won’t soft sell it… gorilla tracking ain’t cheap. 500 bucks for a one day, one hour gorilla permit, but it’s an exclusive show - 8 people maximum per day are allowed to visit each gorilla troop. The proceeds from the permits go toward improving tourism services, park infrastructure, community conservation projects and gorilla protection including funding a team of 80 trackers and anti-poachers who work a 24-7 watch on their charges.
We departed on a clear, cool morning, gaiters on and packs filled, prepared for what we’d been warned could be the worst…dumping rain, stinging nettles, mud bog walks, 6-8 hour round trips over dicey terrain. Our venture proved short and forgiving. A steady hike under clear skies, we worked out way straight up the sides of Sabyinyo toward the Hirwa group of gorillas.
The trail wove its way through fields and as we moved into the rainforest, Francois educated us on all the flora the gorillas fed upon - bamboo, sour apple, fern… we crossed the buffalo wall, demarcation of the national park boundary built to keep the hyper destructive African buffalo within the park and out of farmers’ crops.
The canopy thickened. Francois’ radio squawked and he spoke in a rapid fire mix of Kinyarwandan and French. We searched his expression for clues as to our fate.
“They are this way, follow me”
A few moments later, we met up with the trackers and received our debriefing.
“No food no drink leave your packs here no flash you need to pee? Do that now. Numba 2? You need to have done that before. You follow me, you listen to my instructions.”
We nod as willing converts to the one-hour window of gorilla interaction. The anticipation was palpable.
A short walk, maybe 200 yards later, we encountered a mother and baby.
With about 3% DNA deviation, gorillas are the better side of the family - like us, but more calm, less fettered by social norms, more furry and rocking it with equivalent of opposable thumbs on their feet (the things I could achieve…).
As for our critically endangered cousins, it was an honor to visit them that close for even just a brief window. Zoological parks can provide an education and thrills but standing across an short, unfenced divide from a peaceful creature that has an uncanny similarity of social structure, behaviors, in whose offspring’s eyes you spot the spark of discovery as the switch tack to climb, discover, play… nothing like it, people, nothing like it.
Words can’t fully describe pure excitement of experiencing these incredible natural treasures up-close. We were moved, every moment spent in their presence precious. Pictures, while great to cue memory and offer a notion of the activity, barely give it justice.
Consider an idea so good that we shouldn’t have to suggest it twice: grab your favorite traveling companion(s), make tracks to Rwanda and check it out for yourself.
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[...] molly sure knows how to captivate the audience. A recent post was published on Gorilla Tracking in the Virungas: Even cooler than it soundsHere’s a brief excerpt of what was written: [...]
I am fortunate to have just visited the gorillas in Rwanda. I could watch Group 13’s antics all day. What incredible creatures. I’m happy to see Rwanda is putting gorilla conservation as a national priority. The gorilla trackers are amazing individuals.
I recently returned from a five week East African safari through Tanzania (including Kilimanjaro climb), Kenya and Uganda. Kenya and Tanzania were stunning, but the best part was gorilla tracking in Uganda with my mother, aunt, and cousin.
The crowning glory of our entire time in Uganda was trekking to find the rare Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. You would not believe the terrain we covered! Steep inclines, extremely dense vegetation and the humid sticky climate of a tropical rainforest. What a challenge! But, oh so completely worth it when you are face to face with one of humanity’s closest living relatives. I was humbled by their gentleness and their complete concern for each other. We watched as young gorilla played without care, jumping off the dominant Silverback as if they were in a WWF wrestling match. Mothers cradled their babies and the young males bravely sat sentry against any danger. I was relieved to note that we were not considered a danger to them. We were welcomed into their world with complete trust and I was so honored to be a part of that. I cannot fully describe the peace which we all felt watching these beings in this incredible forest.
The second day of trekking was harder…no cut trail anywhere. Two members of our group decided to give up their permits to locals in our camp who have never been up the mountain. The gorilla group we were tracking was on the move and they were tough to find in that tangle of vines, branches, thorns and other fun stuff! We all were exhausted from fighting the forest! Again, the exhaustion slips away when you realize what you are witnessing. Young gorillas climbing trees, one just above your head, the Silverback guarding the group as they move to a relaxing spot to feed, a baby so close to me her smell floods my senses. I could have reached out my hand to touch her. Absolutely overwhelming. I loved it and drank it in.
I cried when I left Uganda. After five weeks on the continent, I had become so attached to the rhythm of Africa, to the simple ways and happiness of the people. There is a certain satisfaction of surviving without lights and running water and the modern conveniences we all take for granted at home. I yearn for the peace that is evident in so many ways in Africa. Not everything is handed to you there–it is earned and it is so much more valued. I am still processing a lot of what I saw, felt, heard and tasted. There are a many more details and experiences that I can share with anyone thinking about going, but there are also things that you must learn for yourself, feel with your own heart. My joy is that I can help you plan your own safari, safe and comfortable in your own style, so you will have an opportunity to understand what I experienced and be fortunate enough to witness these miracles in person.